SHORTCUT TO ENDBLOCKS

Okay here's the secret to making quick ACCURATE endblocks. Don't use a bandsaw, or even a tablesaw to make endblocks. Fact is, whether you use Delta, Grizzly or any of the other good brands they're just not accurate enough on such a small piece.

I suggest using a power mitre saw with a fine tooted blade. I use a Makita brand but any brand will do no matter how cheap. Harbor Freight runs one on sale for $39 and every pawn shop in America is full of them.

Cut a strip of wood, with or against the grain as you like. Rip it for the thickness and the height of the endblocks you want. It should come out looking like a fat ruler or yardstick. This is your endblock stock, or the piece all your endblocks will be chopped off of.

Set the mitre saw to the left setting for whatever angle you want to use. For this tip we'll say we're going to use 5 degrees. Set the mitre saw to the left side 5 degree setting, lock it down and NEVER move this setting again until we're done. Instead of swinging the blade left and right we'll just flip the endblock stock over (Shown in figure C below).

Now place the endblock stock on the mitre saw as shown in figure A below. Always, for the purpose of this tip, work from the left side of the mitre saw. Set the mitre saw to the left setting at 5 degrees. Holding the endblock stock firmly against the fence (for safety use a clamp), make your first cut near the end of the stock. This is the first side to the first endblock you are making

Now that we've got the first side done, it's time to make the other side of our V shaped endblock. Common sense says to move the handle on the saw. Not being one to work with common sense I find it's easier to simply flip the endblock stock over. It needs to be flipped as shown below to make an opposing angle to your previous cut.

Now, for the second cut we need to measure out the mitre fence to the right of the blade 3/4 inch (1 inch if you're making the call on our HOW TO BUILD A BOXCALL page). Make sure you measure from the blade and not the slot the blade slides down into. Make a mark with a magic marker on the mitre fence 3/4 inch (1 inch if you're making the call on our HOW TO BUILD A BOXCALL page) from the right side of the blade.

Now slide the end of the wood with the angle cut you just made under the blade, and stop the end of it at the 3/4 inch magic marker mark.

You'll always use this mark, thus assuring each endblock is identical. The more firm the endblock stock is held to the saw, the more accurate the cut will be. I'f I'm building a collectible call I use C clamps to hold it in place.

Now, fire up the saw and make this cut. Whammo, you have your first endblock! Now simply flip the endblock stock again as shown in figure C and line up with the magic marker 3/4 inch mark and cut again, you just made another endblock.

All that's left to do is count your fingers to make sure they're all still there! Keep flipping and cutting to make as many endblocks as you like. All they need is a little sanding to make them smooth.

Safety disclaimer please read:

This is not to be considered expert advice it is intended to be for amusement only. You should always wear dust, eye and ear protection when running this or any power equipment. Never wear baggy clothing and always keep hands clear of the blade.