"Just Because A Call Has Someone's Name Signed To It
Doesn't Mean It's Worth More!
" -
Custom Callmaker Chip Brown











Section 4 Making the end blocks

Making the endblocks was my hardest part to learn. Then James Remington gave me a shortcut. E-mail me after you do it this way and I'll tell you the shortcut.

The endblocks will resemble figure 6 when they're done.

For this simple box call, we'll make the front and back endblock the same. As you get more experience you may decide to make differences in the two endblocks to affect the sound.

Special care should be taken when cutting these pieces, as you're working close to your saw blade with small pieces. I don't advise using a bandsaw to do this...you'll loose some fingers. A scroll saw works great, but a mitre saw and mitre box works better.


I got fed up watching TV last night! All the crime, sex, alcohol and drugs. I swear I'll never watch C-Span again!

Now, the angle on the sides of the blocks should be around 5 degrees. Some callmakers will tell you it has to be exactly 7.18 degrees or other such nonsense. It doesn't, in fact one of the best calls I've ever heard had no angle at all just square endblocks. But it's easier to get sound at about 5 degrees, I guess that explains people swearing it has to be exact. It's just a matter of what you get used to and like.

Now, we have 2 endblocks, 2 sides, 1 paddle...all the fixins' for a good box call!

No, I didn't forget the bottom. It's just a piece of flat wood for crying out loud, even my dad can make a flat piece of wood. Just make it come out from the sides of the bottom of the call 1/4 inch on each side. Have fun with the bottom and scallop the edges or something to make it pretty.

Attaching the sides to the end blocks

Apply glue to two sides of your endblocks, being sure to put the glue on the angled sides. Next we want to find a very flat place to apply the sides to the endblocks. A tabletop works great but so does a concrete floor. NEVER use the kitchen table or you'll be banished to the basement by your wife. I talk from experience here folks. Here is another tip since we're on the subject. Lets say you have a cat in your house...lets say you build calls in your basement...lets also say the cat's litter box is down there in the basement with you...ALWAYS clean up your sawdust each night. A cat will walk a mile past his litterbox to poop in your sawdust. I also learned this from experience. And explain as much as you like about the dirty deeds of the cat and his treachery in your workshop, you wife won't let you kill him..Yep, also from experience.

Now, where were we?

Did you get the glue on your endblocks? Super! Now place the endblocks on a flat surface spaced about right to fit the sides. Keeping the endblocks flat on the surface attach both sides, making sure the endblocks are flush with the ends of the sides. Squeeze this together with your hands for a couple of minutes, then fasten it all together with some clamps. Let it dry overnight.

Gosh dang if'n it ain't lookin' like a box call!

Now we can get to work on that bottom!

If you are one of those folks that think there's good in everyone, you ain't met my mother in law yet. Now theres someone whose face should be on the back of a milk carton.

Building The Bottom

Cut yourself a 2" by 7" piece of wood for the bottom. Whammo, you have a bottom! How easy was that? You'll do some shaping and finish work on the bottom after it's attached to the call. Sometimes, I cut slots in the bottom to accept the sides. It's sort of cool looking but not really necessary. Good quality glue these days make such things great to look at but not important to the quality of the call.

Attach this piece to the bottom of the call body you built. Use a sander to smooth the bottom of the callbody, so you have a good clean joint between the body and the bottom.

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